DIY: Building a decorative shelf || Secretly hiding the TV cords

I had a need to cover up some TV/video game wires, and couldn't find a premade solution.  Here's a peek into the process of building my own shelf, with open insides to hide all those ugly cords!

Back in November, the hubs and I took advantage of some Black Friday sales, and decided to replace our living room TV.  We nick-named it "Bertha," which should give you an idea of why it had to go.  We ended up getting a pretty handsome little Samsung Smart TV from Best Buy, and mounted it above the fireplace on a swivel mount and a sound bar.

We couldn't quite get it centered above the fireplace because of the placement of the studs, but I had a crafty solution up my sleeves.  I got some of those boxy shelves from Target, and filled in the blank space beside the TV.  

One major problem still remained.  I can't stand cords.  I've always been the kind of person to hide them as much as possible, and this was not an easy challenge.  I did some internet research, and found some people who had drilled a hole in the wall and fished the wires behind.  I decided not to take this route for 2 reasons: the TV is mounted on an external wall, and I didn't want to mess up any of the insulation, and running power behind the wall without going into proper electrical wiring could be a major fire hazard.  I wasn't really looking to tear out the drywall and run proper wiring and an electrical outlet.  As a side thought, we also decided that if we want to sell our house anytime in the near future, a prospective buyer may not want an electrical outlet above the fireplace.  

We scoured the local stores for some cord hiding solutions, and nothing really seemed to make them invisible.  We looked at all kinds of options that Lowes and Best Buy suggested, but I wasn't really pleased with any of them.  All I wanted was something to hide the cords, but look like it belonged!  Here's the post that ultimately inspired my design.  This guy did run the cords behind the wall beside the fireplace, but his idea about hiding the cords above the fireplace is exactly what I needed.  

I couldn't find a shelf in the right dimensions, so I got the idea of using crown molding.  I got one decorative piece for the front, and one plain piece (intended for chair rail I think).  I measured the distance I needed to cover, and started cutting!

Here's the cutting device I used.  It's handy when you don't have a wood shop.  The most important part was to be sure that the molding was at the right angle, so the cuts would be right.  

The angles fit just right!

I used the smallest nails I could find, and was very careful to tap the pieces together.  A little wood glue also helped keep the pieces where they belong.

The hardest part of the whole project is waiting for the glue (and later the paint) to dry.

I found these little brackets in the hardware section.  They were the perfect size for what I needed, and would help me make my masterpiece easily detachable from the wall.  I also used a dremel tool to carve out a little crescent on each end of the shelf.  I made them subtle, but still large enough to allow for cords to come out from either side.  

Now for paint!

I used the same color paint that was used on the trim in our house.  This particular hue is called Statuesque and is by Valspar.  It's a really sharp white, and contrasts nicely with the bold colors we used in the floor and walls. 

Voila!  The shelf is very subtle, and looks like it was an original part of the fireplace.  It's large enough to put small knickknacks or candles on, but small enough to be visually pleasing.  

Fin!

Book binding || Wedding guest book

I was recently a bridesmaid in a good friend's wedding, and I had the pleasure of putting together the guest book for her big day!  I used some of the techniques I learned in college for book making, and I am super please in how it turned out.  

To make the cover, I had to gather some decorative papers, as well as a heavy cardstock/card board.  I ended up finding a heavy matte board that did the trick.  Also, needed is a cutting surface, a metal ruler, spray adhesive and an exacto knife. 

Once I cut the matte board to size, I cut the outer paper with about a half an inch buffer.  This is so you can wrap the edges around nicely.   Then I used my spray adhesive to attach the paper to the board.  After gluing the paper to the matte board, it helps to cut the corners off so when you fold things around, it doesn't bunch up.

Then you fold the paper over the edges and glue down.  This face of the board will be on the inside of the cover.  

Then I cut the paper I wanted to be on the inside cover.  it's just slightly smaller than what the matte board was.  This will cover your folded edges quite nicely!

I also wanted to add a nice little touch to the front page of the inside of the book.  We used the ampersand on the wedding favors, and I felt like it was a nice little touch.  I never ended up using the silver letters, mainly because the bride and groom had too many s' in their names, and I would have had to buy 3 or 4 packs of letters!

I gathered my paper and pre-poked the holes for sewing.

I also poked the holes using the same measurements through the cover.

To bind the book, I used the Double Needle Coptic Stitch.  It's very fun technique once you get the hang of it! Check out my tutorial on how to do it here.

You end up with a nice braided effect on the spine of the book when it's all done.

And there's the inside!  The bride and groom loved it, and they'll have plenty of pages to write their own memories as well as include pictures.

Book Making || The Double Needle Coptic Stitch

I've made a couple books over the past few years, including the guest book at a friend's recent wedding.  A few years ago, I wrote up instructions on my old blog.  In the next day or two, I'll post the guest book I created.  But for now, here's the set of instructions I wrote up a few years ago.  Have fun!

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What you need:

• Paper
• Book cover
• 2 needles- curved is best, but straight works too
• Thread- The thicker, the wider your spine will be, though the "braided" edge will look nicer!
• Needle tool or pin
• Bone folder- this is optional, though you need something to crease your paper to a crisp fold

Setting up:
The paper size. It all depends on the size of your cover. When the book is completed, it is typically ideal to have the cover stick out 1/4 of an inch beyond the paper on all sides except for the spine. This protects the paper, and it looks better. For example: If you have paper that is 8 1/2 x 11-regular computer paper- and fold it in half (hamburger way) for your signature, you will have each signature 8 1/2 x 5 1/2. This means your cover should be 9 x 5 3/4.

PS... a signature is a grouping of paper folded in half to form a mini book.

The pages. The book can have as many pages you want. Just make sure each signature is no more than 10 pages. This is a suggestion so that your pages will each be about the same - folding them makes the outer edge take a zigzag shape. Plus, it makes sewing a bit easier.

The thread. You need one piece of thread for every 2 sets of holes. If you want the binding to have 4 rows of "braided" stitching, you need 2 pieces of thread. Each piece should be about an arm length and a half, though if you are working with a lot of paper, take this into consideration.

The jig. No, it's not a fishing lure. The jig is a piece of paper folded to match the height of your signatures so you can make the holes perfect. It helps to either write TOP on one end, or make some other marking to distinguish the direction of your jig.

The holes. You need an even number of holes. This is because you will be stitching from both ends of the thread. I suggest measuring on your jig so your holes are even lengths away from each other. Say we have our folded computer paper signatures. Remember the 8 1/2 x 5 1/2 one? Since the spine is along the 5 1/2 folded side, for a spine with 4 rows of stitching I suggest doing your holes in inch increments with an inch and a half between the middle holes. Use your needle tool or pin and poke holes where you wish. Make sure your holes are in the same place on your cover as well!
Set your jig on the inside of the fold of your first signature and use your needle tool to poke the holes. Repeat on all signatures.


Binding your book:
Start by taking your first signature and from the inside, thread both needles (one on either end of the thread) through your holes. Now with your thread on the outside of the signature, thread down through the hole of your outside cover, and then back into the hole you just came out of. Repeat with the other hole. Now on the inside of the signature, cross the thread and stitch each needle out of the other hole. The thread should lay flat inside the signature.

Now with your thread on the outside of your first signature, thread each needle into the hole of the signature directly above it. This is the only time you will stitch straight up into the next signature without doing the kettle stitch. Don't worry. It's coming.

On the inside of signature 2, cross your threads and exit through the holes.

The Kettle Stitch. Starting with one of your threads- with the needle, reach down and thread behind the threads between the cover and signature 1, and then back out the other side. It's basically a half hitch (a loop with the end pulled through to create a lock). Thread into the hole directly above into signature 3. Same with other side, and then cross inside signature 3 and exit again.

Rinse and repeat.

After you have added all of your signatures, to add the final cover, exit from the last signature, thread up through the outside cover, and back into the same hole you just exited from. Same with the other side. Now inside the last signature, tie the ends of the thread together and cut.

Fin!

Tips:
Make sure when you are stitching, don't pull too tight as you can rip the paper in your signature. On the same note, make sure to pull it somewhat tight as to keep the width of your spine as tight and small as possible.

Some people wax their thread as to prevent it from getting fuzzy. Hey, paper can wear a thread out if you're not careful!

Jazz it up! If you're feeling kinda plain and want some color in your life, try putting a piece of colored paper on the outside of each signature!

I've never tried it, but I've read that if instead of using one long thread, on the inside of signature 1 you can tie off 2 different colored threads... the "braid" on the spine will alternate colors as you ascend to each signature!